dimanche 3 février 2008

크렘 브륄레 (crème brûlée)

« 불에 태운 크림 » 이라는 뜻을 가진 크렘 브륄레는 이름 그대로 불에 살짝 그을린 크림입니다. 미리 만들어서 차갑게 식혀 둔 크림 위에 먹기 직전 (황)설탕을 고르게 뿌린 후 이것이 꺄라멜이 될 때까지 열을 가한 것이지요. 표면은 뜨겁고 밑의 크림은 차가운 상태를 유지해야 합니다. 따라서 비록 맛과 질감은 전혀 틀리지만 크렘 브륄레와 프로피트롤 (profiteroles) 은 같은 원칙에 기반을 둔 후식입니다.

그런데 정말 맛있는 크렘 브륄레는 먹을 수 있는 기회가 적습니다. 대부분의 식당들에서는 크렘 브륄레를 마지막 순간에 brûler 하는 것이 아니라, 미리 다 그을려 놓았기 때문에 뜨거움과 차가움의 조화를 맛볼 수 없습니다. 그리고 뜨겁게 녹은 설탕이 밑의 차가운 크림과 만나면서 생기는 온도 차이 때문에 표면에는 바삭바삭한 꺄라멜 껍질이 형성되어야 하는데, 대개는 눅눅한 껍질이거나, 아니면 아예 껍질이 만들어지지도 않은 경우도 많습니다.

집에서 만들 경우, 크림 자체는 전혀 문제가 아닌데, 가장 중요한 과정, 즉 태우기가 매우 힘듭니다.

만드는 법 :
  1. 달걀 노른자 네 개와 설탕 100 g 을 섞습니다.
  2. 여기에 바닐라향과 우유 20 cl 를 넣고 섞습니다.
  3. 여기에 크렘 에뻬쓰 (crème épaisse) 250 g 과 오렌지 술 약간을 섞습니다.
  4. 크렘 브륄레용 그릇에 나눠 담은 후 150도로 덥힌 오븐에서 약 30분간 익힙니다.
  5. 상온에서 식힌 후 냉장고에 최소한 한 시간 이상 두어 차갑게 굳힙니다.
  6. 먹기 직전 설탕을 뿌린 후 불로 태웁니다.

크렘을 브륄레하기 위해서 보통 가정에서는 오븐의 그릴 기능을 이용할 수 밖에 없는데, 그러면 표면만 타는 것이 아니라, 크림 전체가 부글부글 끓어 오릅니다. 그렇다고 너무 일찍 꺼내면, 표면의 설탕이 전혀, 또는 거의 녹지 않습니다. 사실 그냥 먹어도 맛있긴 하지만^^, 크렘이 브륄레되지 않았다면 크렘 브륄레라고 할 수 없지요 !

이 문제를 해결하기 위해 시중에서는 크렘 브륄레 전용 다리미 (fer à crème brûlée) 라는 것을 팝니다. 이것은 지름 10 cm 정도 되는 둥글 납작한 무거운 금속판으로, 옛날 다리미 (fer) 의 원칙을 응용한 것입니다. 즉 이 철판을 뜨겁게 달군 다음 크림 브륄레의 표면을 지지는 것이지요. 직접 사용해 본 적이 없어서 모르겠으나, 별로 실용적으로 보이지는 않습니다. 인터넷의 요리 포럼 등에서 다른 사람들의 의견을 보아도 불평불만이 많더라구요.

전문 요리사들은 작은 샬뤼모 (chalumeau) 를 사용합니다. 엄청나게 높은 온도의 가스 불꽃을 뿜어내는 살뤼모는 원래는 금속 용접에 쓰이는 공업 기구이나, 집안의 자잘한 수리를 위한 소형 모델도 구할 수 있습니다. 그리고 요즘은 아예 크렘 브륄레 전용 샬뤼모라는 것을 점점 더 자주 보게 됩니다. 값이 그리 비싸지는 않지만, 과연 크렘 브륄레를 얼마나 자주 해먹겠다고 이런 걸 다 사나 하는 생각도 들고, 또 한편으로는, 있으면 편리할 것 같기도 하고... 저는 수년째 망설이고만 있습니다.

샬뤼모 없이 만들었기에 제대로 브륄레 되지 않은
크렘 브륄레 (crème brûlée)

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